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Copper Onion Opens Downtown - City Weekly 10/18/10

Posted By: Virginia Rainey

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Had a chance to taste some truly fine food at the new Copper Onion chef Ryan Lowder's casual new downtown restaurant -- next to the Broadway Theaters (former Mr. Z's location) this weekend I can happily report, "dinner and a movie" were never better in this prime location.

Official opening day is tomorrow and that's good news for everyone: another tempting option for downtown dining. Lowder has conjured up an appealing combination of high-end talent and ingredients at really reasonable prices.

The concept is all about fresh, regional, casual. We loved the 'small plate' of sauteed chanterelles topped with crisp shoestring potatoes and a farm-fresh lightly fried egg -- yolk properly quivering and ready to coat the savory flavors below. Other highlights were a perfectly balanced arugula salad with sherry vinegar, olive and parmesan. Sauteed cod with a pale (but intensely flavored) lemon jam on kale and a side of sauteed pea shoots with golden raisins and pine nuts hit all the right notes--balance, texture, color. Good stuff. Oh, and the cheesecake? Just do it -- lightest, creamiest, bestest.

Looking forward to trying the roasted lamb riblets with shishito peppers, the mussels with chili and basil and house-made pappardelle with pork ragout...and lots more. Looks like the web site is a work in progress, but soon you should be able to find more info at www.thecopperonion.com

 

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